![]() Now replacing roof and fixing ventilation. Air flow from soffit to ridge probably minimal. Have had some ice daming problems (house in in Maine). He installed a continuous ridge vent and a continuous soffit vent but no rafter vents! R-19 in 2" x 8" space now (with 1" foam board under T&G). I told the contractor who built it to make sure we had proper ventilation. I install the insulation baffle vent chutes on top of the insulation and under the decking all the way from the Intake Ventilation source up to and beyond the knee-wall area, which then transcends into a small triangle enclosed attic area where the proper Ridge Vent should be utilized for the Balance amount of Exhaust Flowage. The ones from the Air Vent people are good, but there is very little variation in those products from one manufacturer to another, so, since their is little else to compare, choose which ever one suits your aesthetic appeal, providing that they each offer a 9 square inch per lineal foot NFVA.Īlternatively, the cape cod style is precisely where the Smart Vent from DCI Products has become the most ideal solution from my experiences. Seeing as you already have metal clad soffits, that increases the cost and finesse that a strip soffit under eave Intake Vent would like to provide. Or do you bring the Baffle from soffit upto the Attic and let the air flow into the Attic. Go to the Lomanco site and check out how minimal those types of Intake Vents really are…Ĭontinuous strip soffit venting or Smart Vent under the shingles would each be a better choice for the Intake Ventilation.Ĭan you recommend a Continuous strip soffit and also how would you go about installing it on a metal wrapped soffit.Īlso on cape house with Attic open with Ridge vent, do you install the Baffle from the soffit to all the way to Ridge vent. For that reason, you should check your baffles yearly for damage, replacing any damaged baffles as you find them.You would need 4 of the 4" diameter mini-louver vents in between each and every 16" On Center Rafter to achieve about 9 Square Inches of NFVA per lineal foot, which is the desired amount to balance a properly fitted continuous Ridge Vent. This can cause all sorts of problems, from mold to decay. When you have insulation without ventilation, though, humidity and moisture can build up. Make sure the baffles keep it from butting up against the rafter bays.Īn attic needs to be insulated to keep your house warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Step 3-Replacing the InsulationĪfter you have installed every baffle, push the existing insulation back into place, or lay your new insulation. Be careful of any roofing nails that may be sticking out of the rafters or bay. Staple the edges into place with the staple gun, making sure they are lined up correctly and securely. Fit each one snuggly in the bay, with the bottom starting where the ceiling joist meets the roof rafter. You will need a baffle for each space between the rafters. Pull any existing insulation away from the edges of the attic where you will be putting up the baffles. If your roof rafters have been covered over with drywall or plywood, you will have to remove it in order to install the baffles. Whenever you will be working around any insulation, it is important to wear your safety gear (goggles, gloves, dust mask, and coveralls) to prevent irritation to your skin and eyes.
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